Looking out of the aeroplane's window at one point, there was nothing to see except a blue South China Sea. However, the view changed once we flew over Vietnam, Laos and the eastern park of Thailand; which were blanketed in cloud! While descending into Bangkok (its Thai name is Krung Thep), a Thai Airways stewardess (in a beautiful costume) walked through the cabin, presenting each female passenger with an orchid; which I thought was a very nice touch!

My first observations of Thailand were: the outlying areas had roads that were as straight as a die, with rectangular fields fitting neatly between those roads, with other roads crossing at right-angle to them. Once inside the airport terminal, one was met with cleanliness, tidiness and organisation. While queuing at passport control, I started talking to a group of Canadian competitors (from Vancouver) from yesterday's Dragon Boat Championships. They told me that Hong Kong was the last event of the series and these Canadians were taking a couple of weeks off, heading for Chiang Mai.

After changing USD 200 and my remaining HKD at the airport (and there's me saying not to change money at airports because of the bad exchange rates!), I made my way towards the Tourist Information Desk for directions into the city. I was told to take a number 4 bus and a tuk-tuk. The Lonely Planet guide suggested the Malaysia Hotel, just off of Rama IV Road, but I first tried the now-closed Peachy Guesthouse, but it only had a double room with fan; no air conditioning. Next was the Malaysia Hotel, but the phone was engaged. The Privacy Guesthouse (86 Khaosan Road) had some spare rooms with bathroom and air conditioning for THB 350 (£8.75).

Time was ticking by and I was getting more anxious. I therefore decided to take a chance with the Malaysia Hotel and so headed into Bangkok by bus. That was an experience in itself! The girl at the airport's Tourist Information Desk told me to "Wait by the freeway, outside the airport building for a Number 4 bus".

Once outside, the traffic was diabolical! There were scores of single-deck buses, some, of which, stopped, while the rest didn't! So much for an airport service! I didn't know where they came from, nor did I know where they were going! The only thing I knew was that I needed a number 4! I was almost prepared to offer to share a taxi with another couple, when a number 4 bus finally arrived; the couple got on a following number 59 bus.

The next hurdle was to state my destination! I just pointed to the public bus sheet given to me at the Tourist Information Desk. The fare was THB 16 (£0.40); a bit cheaper than a taxi costing THB 250 (£6.25). All I knew was that I had to look out for a racecourse on the right-hand side, followed by a park on the left-hand side.

I managed to get off the bus at the correct stop. After walking for what seemed like 30 minutes, I arrived at the hotel exhausted. "Have you a room with a bathroom?" (I was dripping wet from the humidity!) "We only have a Superior Room for THB 498". (£12.45) "Yes, I'll take it" I said - in desparation!

When I got to the room (at 18:30), I sat on the bed and burst into tears, probably from stress relief and sheer delight of finding somewhere to sleep! The room had two beds (one double and one single), a separate bathroom, air conditioning and a television. Just to add to my delight, BBC Asia could be received, and at 19:30 local (13:30 BST) I watched the BBC One O'clock News! After the news had finished, the (outside) heavens opened! It was the first rain I had seen for two and a half weeks. Delightful, but I was glad I was in the dry! It was the start of one enormously long tropical thunderstorm!

I decided to go down to the restaurant, where I had a banana split and a large (630cc) beer. It seemed as if I had ended up in one of those hotels, in one of those areas! There was loud music coming from what could have been a disco at the opposite side of the foyer. There was a young girl (approximately fourteen years of age) casually walking around the Reception area. Some time later, I saw her on the arm of a European guy, old enough to be her father - or even her grandfather! They entered the restaurant and ordered drinks. I later heard him say something to her about "going up to my room"!

On their way out, he recognised the S.W.I.F.T. logo on my T-shirt, and stopped to talk. He mentioned that he (like me) used to work for a French bank that used the services of S.W.I.F.T. Shortly after, they left and so did I, into the fresh air - and pouring rain. Wow, it was humid! At 22:30, I retired to my room absolutely exhausted, while the storm continued outside.

Tuesday, 06 - Jul - 1993

After having a very good night's sleep, I took a breakfast of toast and milk (THB 53 (£1.32)). Having given some thought to the accommodation situation, I decided to pay for an extra two nights, even though the hotel wasn't as good as I had first imagined (from the description in the Lonely Planet guide). At least it was somewhere to rest and shower. My next question was: What should I do to-day? "Why don't I head for the Tourist Office."

I took a 'Meter Taxi' and paid THB 50 (£1.25), arriving at 12:30, where I was attended to by a very helpful and courteous gentleman. I left the office with a lot of leaflets and decide to visit the Royal Grand Palace; I had noticed a golden dome as the taxi was approaching the tourist office. Also, from looking at the map, the Royal Grand Palace was not far away. However, I misread the map. The dome that I had seen was not of the Royal Grand Palace, but Wat Saket on top of the Golden Mount; there are good views of the city from the top (see Photo TH-001 and Photo TH-002). Having gained a better idea of my bearings, I headed towards the real Royal Grand Palace again!

Not far from the Golden Mount, I came across what looked like a small enterprise, dealing with teak (see Photo TH-003). Although the carving of the wood was intricate, a lot of teak was stored at the back. I just hope that the forests were/are being properly managed, as unfortunately, it takes many years for a teak tree to reach maturity.

Photo TH-001

Photo TH-002

Photo TH-003

Photo TH-004

While walking along Ratchadamnoen Klang (Avenue), a smartly dressed gentleman approached, wishing me a "Good Afternoon". Realising I was a tourist, he suggested a number of places on my map that I should visit. "Start with the nearby SP Jewellery." With his advice, I started walking. Almost at the same time, one of those tuk-tuk machines stopped and asked "Where to?"

"SP Jewelry. How much?" I asked. "10 Baht" he replied. He eventually accepted THB 5 (£0.12). At last I was about to experience one of those 'taxis' that I had read and heard so much about. It was quite an experience, I can tell you! Anyway, he got me safely to my destination. It was a pleasure to visit SP Jewellery; only because the building was air conditioned! The company sold gems, gold and silk; a pair of trousers could be made in 24 hours!

Once I had cooled down, and not wanting to spend too much time there, I left for the Grand Palace (again!). Virtually at the same point where I had taken my first tuk-tuk, another one stopped for business. "Where you go?"

"The Grand Palace" I said. He offered me a deal - "We go to the Standing Buddha (also known as Wat Intharawihan and/or Wat Indrawiharn), then to somewhere that I didn't understand, and lastly to Wat Benchamabophit (the Marble Temple) for THB 80 (£1.60). I got him down to THB 50 with us ending at the Grand Palace. It seemed like a good deal to me, so off we set. Our first port of call was an export centre selling gems. Our next stop was yet another 'gem stop'! I then learned that tuk-tuk drivers get fuel vouchers for the people they take to these places! Now I understood why they were so friendly!

When I came out of Wat Benchamabophit, my tuk-tuk had gone! Obviously, he couldn't wait. I found it hard to believe, especially as he had earlier told me to take my time. Because of his early departure, I was THB 50 better off! Time to search for another tuk-tuk.

What I thought was another tuk-tuk, turned out to be a private taxi. From an initial fare of THB 200 to the railway station, I got him down to THB 50. He was Chinese and spoke velly good Engrish. I thought I had been overcharged, but on reflection, the car had air conditioning, the traffic was getting worse, and I hadn't paid for the earlier tuk-tuk!

For the fourth time to-day, I ended up at a gem 'factory'. Fifteen minutes later (after my tour), I came out to see the taxi driver holding the car's rotor arm in his hand, peering into the engine compartment, saying that his car will not start. That's all I wanted! I was told not to worry, as another taxi was on its way. Eventually, the replacement taxi arrived and delivered me to the railway station.

Having had a frustrating day, mainly because I had not been able to visit the Grand Palace, I noticed a travel agent inside the station (in Room 100). A trip to the Bridge over the River Kwai had been suggested to me before leaving Bruxelles. I would have gone, but I was told that the next available date was seven days away; I couldn't wait that long. Instead, I enquired about travelling to Phuket - for a few days R+R (rest and recuperation) on a beach!

The cost was approximately THB 650 (£16.25) to go to Phuket by train. On heading out of the station, the Thai Royal Anthem started playing over the station's public address system. On hearing this (I think it was at 11:00), virtually everyone stood still; the Royal Family is highly respected in Thailand. Once the anthem had finished and it was safe to continue walking, I made my way to the River City Shopping Centre, on Yota Road, and ate at the riverside restaurant (see Photo TH-004)), where I had tiger prawns and shrimps, with vegetables; and very nice it was too! I arrived back at the hotel (via a tuk-tuk) at 21:00, where I had a small beer and retired to write some more postcards.

Wednesday, 07 - Jul - 1993

I had toast, fresh pineapple and some milk for breakfast, then took a tuk-tuk to the railway station where I booked my train journey for tomorrow night. I requested air conditioning and a bed, for a cost of THB 454 (£11.35) plus THB 180 (£4.50) for a bus; there was also a THB 50 'arrangement fee'! A girl assistant disappeared - to purchase the ticket from the ticket office next door! Had I been conned? I'd have to wait and see. He then asked me if I had accommodation at Phuket. "We have deals." I wasn't sure, even after he had guaranteed a good room with air conditioning and breakfast for THB 850 (£21.25) and a car to take me to the hotel. In the end, I paid up, thinking that if I had been conned, it cost me THB 850.

After leaving the station, I aimed for the Post Office to post my cards and understand what I needed to do tomorrow, in order to call Thatcham; well, that was the plan! At the Post Office, I looked and observed, then decided it was time to make my exit. I turned 180° and found myself standing face-to-face with someone I used to go ten-pin bowling with, in Geneva, three years previous! Michel Bouvier and myself were speechless! I was aware that he was globetrotting (he and his party left Europe one month before I did), but I had no idea of his itinerary, nor that our paths would cross! He and his three companions arrived yesterday from India. I said that I wanted to get out of Bangkok, as it was so dirty. Michel said that Bangkok was a paradise, compared to Calcutta! His reason was that he'd have to change his T-shirt three times a day in Calcutta, due to the pollution, but he had only needed to change it once here in Bangkok. OK, I accepted that. But I still wanted to get out - to a beach!

As the Post Office was not far from the Chao Phraya River, the five of us decided to take a river taxi (Photo TH-005) to the Grand Palace. After waiting some time at the Wat Muangkae River Terminal (Photo TH-006), it occurred to us that we were at the wrong landing stage! It turned out that this location was no longer used! Once we had boarded a river taxi at the correct landing stage, we alighted some minutes later at the stop beyond the Grand Palace! On our way back towards the Grand Palace, we passed a number of 'barrow boys' selling food. So, feeling hungry, we stopped at one to have something to eat. I had chicken (THB 10 (£0.26)) and corn on the cob (THB 5 (£0.13)), cooked on mini charcoal burners. Having had our fill, we said our "Goodbyes", after which, I found the Grand Palace!

Photo TH-005

Photo TH-006

Photo TH-007

Unfortunately, the palace was closed, but, at least I had found it! What a beautiful building it was too, from what could be seen from the outside; see Photo TH-007 (it was a shame about the heavy cloud). Anyway, while making my way around the outside of the palace, I was approached by a Thai gentleman, who ended up talking to me for about 10 minutes! He was very keen to show me other parts of Bangkok, but being very suspicious of strangers, I politely declined his offer. Although the majority of the Thai people appear to be very friendly, I wasn't sure about his offer. "Thank you" I said, and carried on walking.

Not far away, I came across a street market where, again, I was approached and spoken to. This time by a respectable looking gentleman; they really are friendly here! I noticed I wasn't too far from the river, so I started walking towards it when another gentleman shouted "Army property!"

He was very smartly dressed, and stated that he was from the Thai Embassy in London. He told me that two days ago, the Thai Government had relaxed the export duty (298%) on jewellery. I then understood the significance of the trips to all the gem shops! Well, I thought I did. However, see the Gem Scam and related stories! He almost summoned a tuk-tuk for me, saying that I could buy something for USD 2,000 and sell for USD 8,000! Even if he was telling the truth, USD 2,000 was a lot of money to part with

1. so early in my journey,
2. when you're not looking for jewellery, and
3. when you're on a reasonably strict budget!

I politely excused myself and continued my walk, when I was stopped by the driver of a tuk-tuk. He offered to take me to the Export Center, to see a Thai dancer, and finally to see Thai boxing, all for THB 10. It all seemed too good to be true, but I declined and continued walking. I had walked approximately 100 metres and the same tuk-tuk pulled up beside me. I relented and agreed to be taken to yet another jeweller, purely because of his persistence. We arrived and the driver insisted I go in. I did, and he disappeared; minus his fare (THB 10)! Upstairs, information about precious stones was presented to me. All very interesting and convincing, but I am someone who is NOT going to be forced into buying something I don't need or want. Perhaps the stones would appreciate in value, but in view of the information about the scams, No they won't and No I'm not buying! By this time, I had drifted away from 'the action', so I continued walking. After 30 minutes, I'd had enough of walking and took a tuk-tuk back to the hotel, arriving at 20:00, very tired.

Thursday, 08 - Jul - 1993

As this was to be my last day in Bangkok, I had to get back to the Grand Palace. Besides, the weather was a lot better than yesterday; the sun was shining! I had breakfast, checked out and took a taxi to the railway station; where I deposited my backpack. I then made my way over to the Grand Palace, making full use of the various air conditioned shopping malls and the Sheraton Hotel to cool down! On my way, I saw an advert on the back of a tuk-tuk for Bangkok's Hard Rock Café (HRC). Having enquired at the Sheraton Hotel of its whereabouts (for a possible later meal), I was told it was behind the Lido Theatre, on Rama I Road. I continued on my way, heading for the Wat Muang Kae river terminal (the one we were at yesterday (behind the post office)) and boarded an express river taxi (THB 6 (£0.15)) to the Grand Palace.

On reaching the Grand Palace, I paid my entrance fee (THB 125 (£3.12)) and entered the grounds. Wow! What a beautiful place! It was worth all the frustration of the previous few days trying to get there! Unfortunately, and despite my delight, the clouds started building, once I was inside the palace walls. Therefore, the full golden splendour of the palace buildings is not truely represented by the following photographs.

Photo TH-008	Photo TH-009	Photo TH-010	Photo TH-011
Photo TH-012	Photo TH-013	Photo TH-014	Photo TH-015
Photo TH-016	Photo TH-017	Photo TH-018	Photo TH-019

As I wanted to "phone home" at 14:00 local time from the post office, I kept an eye on the time. At 13:15, I left the palace and headed for the nearby landing stage. For some unknown reason, the river was unusually quiet. An express boat arrived at 13:40 and I was able to make a five minute call at 14:15. My daughter had broken a front tooth while at Sea Cadets - from an accident with a broom handle! That was the second injury she had sustained there! My son had earned himself £15 by doing some gardening.

While at the post office, I sent two exposed films (for processing) and a guide to the Grand Palace to Thatcham. The idea was that it was less weight for me to carry on my trip, plus the views could be seen by those 'back home'. Postage and packaging cost THB 64 (£1.82) and THB 9 respectively. By this time, my stomach was beginning to think my throat had been cut, so I headed for the Hard Rock Cafe (HRC). I asked a tuk-tuk driver to take me to the Intercontinental Hotel. He said "60 Baht"; I said 40; he replied with 50; I kept at 40; he said "No"; so I started walking away. Then he said "OK".

By Jove! (Fr: Fichtre - thank you Apolline! ) I think I've got the hang of bartering now!

Upon arrival at the magnificent hotel, I asked directions to the HRC, disappeared into the toilet to wash the sweat from my face and hands, then set off for my meal. To assure myself that I was walking in the right direction, I asked a gentleman the way. He was accompanied by a very attractive lady, who suggested I had a cheaper Chinese meal with her! Was he a pimp, or was it pure friendliness? I shall never know!

Once inside the HRC, I ordered the day's special - Breast of Chicken in a Spicy Sauce. Whether it was because I was hungry, I don't know, but it was very good. Afterwards, I bought three T-shirts from the HRC shop, then via the Tokyu department store, made my way back to the station, arriving at 17:20; two hours before the train's departure.

I collected my backpack, then bought a 7Up, which was served to me in an unusual way. As I requested ice (which, on reflection, I should not have done (because of possible contaminated frozen water!)), the drink was poured into a triangular plastic bag with one top corner tied with an elastic band and the other corner had a straw in it! As it was cooler inside the ticket office, I went in and sat down to wait for the time to pass. At 18:20, I made my way over to Platform 10. Shortly after, the train was brought in to the platform. My reservation was in carriage number 1. As the first carriage to pass me was number 18, I presumed that carriage number 1 was at (what would be) at the other end of the train (Photo TH-020).

Photo TH-020

I therefore started walking towards the front of the train, noticing that the carriage numbers were decreasing. However, I wondered what the accommodation would be like, as the third class carriage windows, so far, didn't contain any glass, and I had booked air conditioning! At last, I reached carriage number 1, which was the only one to have glass in the windows! Perhaps it does have air conditioning after all. I climbed aboard into a hot and strange environment. Yes, it was designed for sleeping, but instead of being across the carriage, the berths were parallel to the direction of travel. I found my seat, placed my backpack on it and quickly got back onto the platform, as it was cooler outside!

By now, a group of workers was changing the batteries and filling the diesel tank; perhaps (hopefully!) for the air conditioning unit?! When finished, they attempted to start the motor. Et voila! The air conditioning unit sprung into life! A few minutes later, I returned to the carriage to see if it was cooler; and yes, it was! Other passengers also started boarding the carriage.

The train attendant started placing clean sheets and blankets on each of the folded top berths. Then he served the passengers with orange juice, only to charge us THB 30 (£0.75) later! A menu was passed around the European-looking passengers. If I had known that a meal was included (which I declined), I might not have eaten at the HRC. Never mind, I shall have a breakfast in the morning.

The express train (with eighteen carriages) departed at 19:25 and, I guess, quickly reached its maximum speed. Well, if it had reached its maximum speed, some cars in the road parallel to the railway line were travelling faster than the train!

At about 21:00, the attendant started preparing the berths. Believe it or not, they were quite comfortable. I set my watch alarm for 05:30, although I suspected we would be woken for breakfast. Goodnight!

Friday, 09 - Jul - 1993

I had a reasonably good night's sleep and was woken at 05:10. The train arrived at Sura Thani (at 06:15) where passengers were shepherded to awaiting busses to their respective destinations. I was directed to a group of three travellers (a couple from Sweden and a girl from Belgium). As we were all bound for the Phuket area, we had to wait until 07:00 for our transport to arrive. Once on the bus, it turned out I was the only one of the group to be heading for Patong Beach; the other three were bound for Karon Beach. If I hadn't had the hotel accommodation reserved, I would have joined them. As it turned out, the Belgian girl (Anne-Marie, from Antwerp) didn't have any accommodation booked, so agreed to accompany me to Patong Beach, and we would join the Swedish couple tomorrow.

The bus arrived at Phuket town travel office, from where I was to be collected by hotel shuttle car. On retrieving my backpack from the luggage compartment, it was virtually white in colour - covered in dust from the road. After a wait of about ten minutes, a new minibus arrived to take us to the (Andaman?) Hotel. If this (luxury) vehicle was anything to go by, the hotel should be quite comfortable! To save on hotel charges, Anne-Marie and I decided to share the cost of a room. She was on a two-week holiday to Phuket, without any pre-booked accommodation.

Once we had checked and settled in, it was time to explore the area! The hotel's breakfast area led directly onto the beach; see Photo TH-021.

Photo TH-021

Over the following week, I was unable to keep my journal up-to-date, as we did so much, including:

• Relaxed on the beach and swam in the Andaman Sea
• Hired a motocycle and toured the 'island'
• Went for walks
• Went on a tour that included visiting a small factory where cashew nuts were prepared. The nut contains a substance that attacks the skin, so the workers need to wear gloves; see Photo TH-027
• Went on a tour to James Bond Island (Khao Phing Kan and Khao Ta Pu) in the Ao Phang Nga National Park.

The following photographs were taken at various times and locations around the 'island' of Phuket.

Photo TH-022	Photo TH-023	Photo TH-024	Photo TH-025
Photo TH-026	Photo TH-027	Photo TH-028	Photo TH-029

A week later, it was time for me to leave. In order to get the bus to Kuala Lumpur, I arranged an alarm call for 05:00, but I awoke at 04:55. I was finally packed and ready by 05:50 as the bus was expected at 06:00. Anne-Marie and I said our goodbyes. Although I knew I had to move on, it was still a sad and emotional moment for me; we had had a lot of fun during this past week. I Hate Goodbyes! [She said that she was going to stay at the hotel for the remainder of her holiday, before returning to Belgium.]

It was still raining hard from the previous evening, so I waited for the bus inside the hotel foyer; it eventually arrived at 06:40. A French couple (from the hotel next door) and I boarded. The next pickup point was at the Coral Beach Hotel (now known, and rebuilt, as the Amari Phuket), where a British couple boarded. The hotel looked good from the road, but better from within, as Photo TH-030 and Photo TH-031 illustrate. Anne-Marie had previously stayed at the hotel, which we also visted during the week.

Photo TH-030

Photo TH-031

A little way out of Patong, I realised that we were on the road to Karon. [Anne-Marie and I passed here on Wednesday on the motorbike, but travelling in the opposite direction.] We collected a 'foreigner' (I use the word loosely, as I don't know his nationality) at Karon, then headed for Phuket town. Upon reaching the town, the French couple got out - he was as sick as a dog and looked very pale. The 'foreigner' was directed to another minibus bound for Haad Yai; but I thought that that was our destination too!

We remaining three Brits departed at 07:30 for Haad Yai. After about two hours, we made our first stop where the 'foreigner' rejoined our minibus! It seemed very strange asking one passenger off of a relatively empty minibus onto another to do the same journey! I know similar events happen on London's buses, but only when they are full.

We reached Krabi at 10:15, where toast, jam and a 7Up were taken for breakfast. A nearby notice board showed a lot of services departing at 11:00, but there weren't many in sight! Interestingly, just before 11:00, minibuses started arriving from all points of the compass; their passengers being directed to this bus or that bus. The organisation was absolutely amazing! The three of us had to change and ended up in a full bus; eleven passengers and the driver, with all luggage on the roof! My seat was at the front, between the driver (on my right) and a girl (on my left). She was clutching a bag of rambutans (Nephelium Lappaceum), so the journey wasn't totally boring!

We left Krabi just after 11:00, with an expected time of arrival of 15:00 at Haad Yai. A stop was made at about 13:00, when two other minibuses arrived shortly after, one of which was carrying that 'foreigner'! Then passengers started transferring from one minibus to another! A totally organised chaos!

We actually arrived in Haad Yai at 15:20. More minibuses arrived, and we went through the same process as we did at Krabi. A member of staff called out various destinations: "Who's going where? K.L. follow me; Penang over there; and so on! The British couple changed their destination from Haad Yai to Butterworth, their ultimate destination being Adelaide; for the Australian F1 Grand Prix; lucky them! [Apparently, Haad Yai is the 'dirty weekend' town for Malaysians!]

We reached the Thai/Malaysian border at 17:00, where we had to adjust our watches to 18:00 (one hour forward).

Bangkok is more expensive than elsewhere, but well worth a visit. It is busy, commercial, hot and sticky. But with its odd mixture of people and styles, it's always mesmerising. A good area to stay is Banglamphu, near the Grand Palace, with an amazing number of budget-priced hostels, including Sawatadee (71 Si Ayuthaya Road) and the imaginatively named My House (37 Soi Chana Songkhram). Both hotels charge only £2.00 or £3.00 per night. Phuket is the major beach destination, but it has become littered with sprawling developments and a Club Med. Best bet now is to head for the island of Ko Pha-Ngan, off the east coast, which can be reached by ferry from Surat Thani (a £6.00 train or bus journey from Bangkok). The main setting-off point for trekking in Thailand is Chiang-Mai. If you head north from here into the jungle, you may be lucky enough to come across Cave Lodge, a hostel run by a Thai woman and her Australian husband, costing about £2.00 a night.

The "Largest Floating Restaurant in the World" has the waiters running around on roller skates. Tuk-tuk's are a good way to get around, but you must bargain hard - 30-40 Baht/ride. Get your hotel staff to write your destination in Thai!

Jungle rafts. River Kwai, Thailand - an overnight trip - highly recommended. It is also worth going "up north" to Chang Mai, etc. You can go trekking in the jungle by Land Rover, elephant, foot, you name it...

The communist country of Laos is just above Thailand. It is tricky obtaining a visa, but you can always try the Leh embassy in Bangkok. The country is poor, rural and unspoilt. [es, it is. I visited Laos in 1998. You could buy a visa at the border; USD 50 at the time.]

Phuket in the south is also good, or if you want something closer to Bangkok, then go to Pataya. "Rose Garden" is a good day trip from Bangkok.