Wednesday, 21 - Jul - 1993

Once on board the Airbus A300-600 aircraft (seat 28A), it made a pleasant change from the trains and buses that I had been used to. I don't know what time we took off, but we crossed the Equator at 08:30 (01:30 BST). Breakfast was OK; scrambled egg, sausage, mushrooms, tomato and potatoe croquettes, accompanied by a croissant, bread roll and fresh fruit.

We landed in Jakarta at 08:30 (one hour behind Singapore time) and took off again at 09:50, arriving in Bali at 12:10 (same time as Singapore); all very confusing, but without any problems with jet lag! The outside temperature was +29°C. I changed £50 into Indonesian Rupiahs (IRP) at a rate of 3,015 to the £1. I ended up with IRP 150,750. At this rate, I could quickly become a multi-millionaire!

Once outside the airport terminal, I was pestered by a hotel tout, offering a very nice looking room, surrounded by palm trees, for IRP 300,000 (£99.50) per week, but I refused. I took a taxi, costing IRP 4,500 (£1.49), to the southern end of Kuta beach. The taxi driver suggested a placed to look at; but I had my suspicions. Anyway, I had a viewing of the Pendawa Bungalows (now known as Pendawa Gapura Hotel). The rooms were very clean, so I booked a room, requesting hot water (in order that I could wash my clothes). I ended upstairs (on the first floor) with a shared balcony (see Photo ID-001 and Photo ID-002), costing IRP 125,000 (£41.46) for three days, including 15% tax and breakfast; I felt as if I had been done. Perhaps I had, but at a little over £13 per night, I thought it was reasonable - certainly compared to Singapore; but it stayed on my mind. After walking around Kuta to compare prices, I could have done better. Anyway, I stopped for a large San Miguel beer IRP 2,500 (£0.83) to quench my thirst and also decided to go to Ubud on Saturday. Whether it was the beer, or the thought of moving on in three days time, suddenly, I felt a lot better!

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Before leaving Bruxelles, it was suggested I visit Ubud when in Bali. Having arrived on the island, I thought: if I were to stay in Ubud for the nights of Saturday and Sunday, I could fly to Cairns on Monday night, arriving on Tuesday morning. I therefore set off for the Garuda office (at the Kuta Beach Hotel), where I was able to change my flight date from 16-Aug-1993 to 26-Jul-1993.

I then headed for the beach and to buy a beach mat. On reaching the beach, the sand felt quite different from what I had been used to; it wasn't so fine, so it was easy to rub off of the skin. Having learnt some basic bartering skills in Bangkok, I bought a mat from a beach seller. He initially said IRP 3,000, but I offered IRP 1,000. 2,500 he - 1,500 me. 2,000 he - 1,500 me and we haggled around this price; I was determined not to offer any higher. He then offered IRP 1,500 for me to rent it! What a cheek! He eventually gave in at IRP 1,500 (£0.50). I thought I'd been done, but as they cost FFR 5 (£0.50) back in France, I wasn't worried.

I bought a bottle of water costing IRP 1,000 (£0.33), then changed another £50 travellers cheque at a rate of 3,069 to the GBP; it was getting better! Wanting something to eat, I entered the Nagasaki Restaurant and Bar and ordered a large beer at IRP 2,500 (£0.81), Sweet and Sour Port at IRP 3,000 (£0.98) with rice at IRP 500 (£0.16); it was quite a good meal. Suitably refreshed, I headed off in what I thought was the direction of the post office, but I couldn't find it in the dark, so, at 21:30, I retraced my footsteps back to Pendawa Bungalows. The streets were surprisingly quiet, except for the occassional girls on motorcycles stopping for "business", as well as other girls just sitting around. I arrived back at 21:50 and crashed out!

Thursday, 22 - Jul - 1993

I awoke at 08:30 after having a very good night's sleep. I went down for breakfast and sat with two other guests (Alex from Australia and Stuart from the U.K.) and had two eggs on toast and orange juice. Stuart decided to go for a walk, while Alex and I decided to spend some time on the beach. Yippee!

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The sea was good, the sun was hot and we found a spot in the shade, under a tree (see Photo ID-004). Alex bartered with a girl selling fresh fruit (see Photo ID-005). Alex chose a pineapple and I chose a coconut, for IRP 1,500 (£0.48). We were probably ripped off, but what the heck! We were on holiday!

After four hours on the beach, we decided to head back to Pendawa Bungalows for a cool shower; it was getting hot! We arranged to meet at 16:00 for a beer. Stuart arrived back shortly after our arranged beer time.

At 20:00, after having had two large beers and Sweet and Sour Pork (again), the three of us headed off into town for some action. We ended up walking into The Legian without realising it! The pavements in that area were about 30 cm high - I guess it must rain quite hard here at times!!!

Upon walking back along the beach front, we encountered some professional ladies 'hidding' in the trees. Ignoring them, we had two beers (IRP 2,500 (£0.81)) at the Bounty Hotel, then ended up at one of two bars (either side of a small lane), trying to out-do each other in the music volume department! These establishments were more alive now than they were when we passed them earlier. Finally back to pit at 01:00.

Friday, 23 - Jul - 1993

I got up at 08:30; I intended having an earlier night tonight. Breakfast was two eggs on toast and pineapple juice. I headed for the beach at 10:15 and by noon, realised that my back was beginning to burn, so I decided to call it a day. I headed into town to buy, write and send some postcards (4 x IRP 250 (£0.08) each), which I wrote outside the closed post office; Friday hours were 08:00 to 11:00. Amazingly, a postman arrived at 14:10 and opened up! After posting the cards, I headed off for a beer at the Nagasagi Restaurant and Bar, and passing a shop that sold better postcards, at IRP 300 (£0.10) each, remembered I needed a few more. I went back to collected my wallet, bought six more cards and continued on to the bar to write them.

On my way back to Pendawa Bungalows to complete the cards, I met Stuart. We arranged to meet for a beer at 18:30. Back in my room, the next hour was spent writing the postcards. When finished, I headed to the bar, arriving at 18:30. I rushed to the post office to post the cards, and much to my surprise, it was still open!

For my meal that evening, I had a very good Nasi Goering. After that, it was time to retire, but I still found time to have a Tetris session on my GameBoy, before turning the lights out at 22:10.

Saturday, 24 - Jul - 1993

On waking at 07:30, I noticed that the fan wasn't working; we were suffering from a power cut, or power outage if you speak American! Power was restored at 08:00. This morning's breakfast was scrambled eggs on toast and pineapple juice, after which, it was time to plan for Ubud; once there, head for the Frog Pond Inn.

I was offered a minibus for IRP 30,000 (£9.77), but said I'll wait until a fellow traveller (Stuart) arrived. The minibus owner disappeared, but reappeared later saying that he had seen Stuart and the price was IRP 15,000 each. We were later informed that the price had been reduced to IRP 10,000 each, as three Dutch guys (who were in the room next to me) were also travelling to Ubud. So instead of getting an initial IRP 30,000, the minibus owner received IRP 50,000 (£16.29)!

We had a stop en route at the Hotel Bali Beach (where we were able to reconfirm our respective onward flights), as Ubud was another one hour further on.

Upon arriving in Ubud, and in particular, Monkey Forest Road, I noticed the Frogg Pond Inn (which had also be mentioned to me back in Bruxelles). Stop the bus! Stuart and I got out and enquired about a room, but were told "Full up, but I have something across the road". So, we walked through a garden to a bungalow which had twin beds, but no hot water, for IRP 15,000 (£4.89) - nothing cheaper at the moment. The Lonely Planet guide suggested a price of between IRP 7,000 (£2.28) and IRP 10,000 (£3.26). Anyway, we decided to take it for one night only. We unpacked and decided to go and find another place. We saw a number of rooms that were immediately available, but none could be guaranteed for tomorrow night.

We were outside a shop at the forest end of Monkey Forest Road when two girls on bicycles (complete with saddles!) pulled up and stopped. We started chatting and the four of us ended up having a bite to eat; jaffles (toasted sandwiches). The subject of accommodation came into the conversation. They said that they had a clean room and were only paying IRP 12,000 (£3.98). They also said that they were leaving tomorrow and would mention it to the owner about us taking over their room! There is a God!

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The four of us went our separate ways; Stuart and I entered the forest, fed the monkeys (with caution - they can be quite viscious!), and continued walking until we came out at the other side. We came across a restaurant (I think its name began with the letters 'Ku') which had a spare room for IRP 20,000 (£6.52), but with a double bed; which we politely declined. However, the location was something else. It was totally surrounded by rice fields - absolutely beautiful and peaceful (Photo ID-007). Imagine waking up to that view every morning! Wonderful!

We continued on our way, at the same time, heading back towards town. We actually came across a shop, where I bought a tube of Smarties and a Mars Bar - to remind us of home! We called in on the girls and asked if they would like to join us in watching some Balanese dancing. It was held in the Ubud Royal Palace, and was wonderful to watch (Photo ID-010). Following that, we had a meal, and I eventually retired at 23:10.

Sunday, 25 - Jul - 1993

This morning's breakfast was bread soaked in egg (cooked somehow, with syrup poured over it; probably for the Americans!) and a fruit salad. We paid up and left at 09:45, arriving at the girls' bungalow at 10:00. We chatted until 12:45, then went off to the tourist office, where I bought a ticket for tomorrow night's shuttle bus to the airport.

Photo ID-011

I went back to our accommodation for a shower, and then I met up with Stuart. We later ate at the Nomad Restaurant, where I had Chicken Saté (IRP 5,500/£1.82), served on a banana leaf containing rice, a small salad and peanut sauce. The chicken was served on small skewers over a small charcoal heater; see Photo ID-011.

At 15:00, Stuart and I each hired a bike for IRP 3,000 (£0.98) and made our way to Elephant Cave, which had an entrance fee of IRP 500 (£0.16), plus a charge of IRP 500 for a sarong. I needed one because I was wearing shorts and bare legs are not permitted.

After leaving the cave, we headed for a cloth weaver (Stuart had been asked to take an authentic Indonesian batik back to the U.K.), but when we arrived, the merchandise was for export only. We turned round and made our way back to Ubud, but via a different route - a bit off the beaten track - where everyone was so friendly, calling out "Hello". We eventually arrived back at Ubud and ended up at the Beggars Rest, where we each had a Sprite!

Monday, 26 - Jul - 1993

I eventually woke up at 08:45. Breakfast (at 09:30) was cinamon syrup on toast with a large bowl of fresh fruit (banana, pineapple and guave) sprinkled with coconut and brown sugar.

Photo ID-012

To buy some typical Indonesian Batik garments, Stuart had been told to locate a shop by the name of IDA Boutique. We had arranged to each hire a bicycle and set off towards Penelokan. Shortly after, I tried phoning the Garuda office (on 87920) at the Hotel Bali Beach to reconfirm my flight to Australia, but there was no answer.

At Penelokan, the shop was supposed to be 400 metres beyond the police station, but it turned out to be more like 2 Kms! After that additional distance, the sweat was running down my face! Inside the shop, we were confronted with an enormous selection of Batik cloths; see Photo ID-012. Stuart ended up buying two sets, comprising one table cloth and eight napkins, costing IRP 48,000 (£15.64).

On our return, I called the Garuda office again (on 88243) and got through! However, I was asked to hold. After six minutes (and two IRP100 coins), the phone hung up! We headed for a travel agent where it was going to cost IRP 3,000 (£0.98) to confirm, but said I only wanted to check the departure; that cost me IRP 1,000; and all lines were busy! So, it was back to the losman.

Stuart went off to try and send his two didgeridoos back to the U.K., while I sent phone cards and credit card receipts back to the U.K. My wallet became a lot thinner! I headed for the travel agent, where it was confirmed that the flight was expected to leave on time; at 23:25. I posted a letter at the Monkey Forest Road post office, costing IRP 3,500 (£1.14).

My hair really needed cutting, but I only had IRP 5,000. I changed a £5 note I had in my wallet for IRP 15,100 and headed for the hairdresser. A wash, cut and blow dry cost IRP 10,000 (£3.30). Afterwards, I thought the back was a little short, but overall, it felt so much better, especially in the heat. Then it was back to the losman to wash my hair, and pack.

Stuart and I left for a bite to eat and ended up at the Kul-Kul Restaurant, where I ordered a Mixed Saté (for IRP 3,500 (£1.15)) and a large San Miguel beer (IRP 3,000 (£0.99)); that left me with IRP 700. After the meal, I collected my backpack from the losman and left at 19:15 for the Ubud tourist information office, where, at 19:35, the minibus for the airport arrived.

One hour and ten minutes later, I arrived at the airport. The departure time for flight GA848 had changed to 22:50. The airport tax was IRP 14,000, not IRP 15,000 that was mentioned to me on Saturday. Therefore, I ended up with IRP 1,700 (£0.55). In the departure lounge, the televisions were showing a Canadian series with subtitles; there is a lot of English language programs on the Indonesian television network, or is it just Balanese television? Anyway, I left Denpasar (Ngurah Rai) airport on an Airbus A300-600 (seat 23K) at 23:20, bound for Cairns, Australia.

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